There are two kinds of theatre restaurant. There's the low-rent sort with tacky themes, forgettable food and the scary possibility that someone will ask you to sing. Then there's the Circa variety. The food is extraordinary, but the transaction is more than culinary. You buy a pocket in time where everything is taken care of, where you're as A-list as you'll ever be, where luxury and fantasy rule. But it's not a standard three-act drama. Sometimes the actors peep from behind the curtain, playing with authenticity and artifice. The theatrical conceits are twisted, tweaked, teased.